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chongo
Fusion Laser
Joined: 20 Dec 2006
Posts: 418
Picture(s): 9
Movie(s): 4
Location: Connecticut
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 Posted: 4/14/07, 8:54 PM Post subject: |
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The way I got it out, was removing the end cap, and ripping the glued-on plastic switch top's off, then with a basic ball-point pen tube pushed it out the front.
Was actually fairly simple, though putting it all back in and aligning it right was kinda a hassle but paid off in the end.
There is a sticky on how to modify your pulsar (the old model) that has pictures of the innards.
The thing that worried me the most about it was re-connecting the diode to the connecter on the driver (switch) board In which I made sure to mark the diode housing with a sharpie to make sure I didnt connect it wrongly. Expically seeing as I had it for 2 days when I decided to mod it due to poor battery contact though don't regret it.. yet... |
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nelson6271
Nexus Laser
Joined: 27 Mar 2006
Posts: 110
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chongo
Fusion Laser
Joined: 20 Dec 2006
Posts: 418
Picture(s): 9
Movie(s): 4
Location: Connecticut
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| Posted: 4/14/07, 9:09 PM Post subject: |
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| DVM's with no uA scale not common? maybe at local hardware stores but should be readily available online at allmost any distrubutor. |
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nelson6271
Nexus Laser
Joined: 27 Mar 2006
Posts: 110
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| Posted: 4/14/07, 10:51 PM Post subject: |
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Well they are, kind of, but I am looking for everything, locally i have found a few stores only, need to shop more for the best of everything, might as well spend a bit more for good ones... umA are not common here in HK, most of the are mA and Amps scale. I don;t want to get those made in China and they are quie fragile for their price and accuratecy!!!
Those that I have seen are like half brick size thinkness! Eventually I get one locally instead of internationally! 
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nelson6271
Nexus Laser
Joined: 27 Mar 2006
Posts: 110
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| Posted: 4/14/07, 10:55 PM Post subject: |
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| chongo wrote: |
| DVM's with no uA scale not common? maybe at local hardware stores but should be readily available online at allmost any distrubutor. |
you mean ''with uA'' and not ''with no uA'', right?
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chongo
Fusion Laser
Joined: 20 Dec 2006
Posts: 418
Picture(s): 9
Movie(s): 4
Location: Connecticut
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| Posted: 4/14/07, 11:01 PM Post subject: |
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| Yeah, dvm's that go down to micro amps. They shouldn't be that hard to find expically if your in china seeing as most are manufactured there. Least I'd expect them to be readily available where there manufactured. |
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Deadeye
Phoenix Laser
Joined: 05 Mar 2007
Posts: 83
Location: Europe, Germany
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| Posted: 4/15/07, 7:12 AM Post subject: |
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| chongo wrote: |
| The way I got it out, was removing the end cap, and ripping the glued-on plastic switch top's off, then with a basic ball-point pen tube pushed it out the front. |
How to get the glued on plastic top off? Without damaging it. Can the plastic top be reused? What tool did you use? |
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chongo
Fusion Laser
Joined: 20 Dec 2006
Posts: 418
Picture(s): 9
Movie(s): 4
Location: Connecticut
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| Posted: 4/15/07, 9:09 AM Post subject: |
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| I just pryed the switch off with an xacto blade carefully. and re-attached it with super glue. Unless your talking about the plastic lens that just unscrews, and scratches VERY easily, though if you do scratch it Wicked sells cheap 5mw units for around 5$ which the lens fits perfectly. Also I think I found a place that makes glass lenses for ~25$, but the min order is 50$ |
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Deadeye
Phoenix Laser
Joined: 05 Mar 2007
Posts: 83
Location: Europe, Germany
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| Posted: 4/15/07, 12:37 PM Post subject: |
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ok now i can imagine how to take the switch out. concerning the lens, i don't need to unscrew it just to take out the drive board unit and the diode, right. Cause i thought until now that the lens and the diode are one unit and come out as one unit, by pushing them gently to the front, but only if i'm removing the switch which seems to hold everything in place.
Yeah the lens is pretty sensitive i already figured that. But i adjusted it quite often so far and still no scratch. so that shouldn't be a prob. But just to take the pulsar apart i won't have to unsrew the lens, right? |
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chongo
Fusion Laser
Joined: 20 Dec 2006
Posts: 418
Picture(s): 9
Movie(s): 4
Location: Connecticut
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| Posted: 4/15/07, 12:41 PM Post subject: |
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| Nope to pop out the whole driver/diode part you shouldn't need to take out the lens at all. The whole assembly should slide out the front once the switch top is removed. |
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thecheat
Wicked Lasers God
Joined: 13 Jan 2006
Posts: 3306
Picture(s): 213
Movie(s): 12
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| Posted: 4/15/07, 2:22 PM Post subject: |
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Edmund optics should have the proper lens for around $34... (glass, AR coated)
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chongo
Fusion Laser
Joined: 20 Dec 2006
Posts: 418
Picture(s): 9
Movie(s): 4
Location: Connecticut
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| Posted: 4/15/07, 2:38 PM Post subject: |
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| I've tried looking around edmunds site in the past and could only find the lens but not the whole assembly, I've also looked into thor labs as well. |
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thecheat
Wicked Lasers God
Joined: 13 Jan 2006
Posts: 3306
Picture(s): 213
Movie(s): 12
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| Posted: 4/15/07, 2:40 PM Post subject: |
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oh... the whole assembly...  oops... that's going to cost a little more...
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chongo
Fusion Laser
Joined: 20 Dec 2006
Posts: 418
Picture(s): 9
Movie(s): 4
Location: Connecticut
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| Posted: 4/15/07, 2:44 PM Post subject: |
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Actually it's a lot cheaper. http://optima-prec.com/molded.htm
I think part #307-0464-780 will fit the pulsar (judging by measureing the plastic lens assembly with a thread gauge measurement and calipers) but never been daring enough myself to order 3 of them to fullfill the minimun purchase ammount. Though I don't think these are AR coated but neither are the plastic ones. |
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nelson6271
Nexus Laser
Joined: 27 Mar 2006
Posts: 110
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| Posted: 5/04/07, 3:14 AM Post subject: Finally Bu |
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Oh man... after several $$$ and few places to look for the correct collimating lens, I am happy (not quite) to tell you that I was able to make some burning with the DVD diode and this collimating lens |).
What I am not so happy is that I am not able to burn at distances greater than 1 feet, yeah not a typo.... 1 feet. Let say a simple black or red ballon....
Is there something wrong with this lens or the 16X DVD Diode not being powerful enough...
At close range say 5-20cm it feels ready darn HOT on the spot!!! As the distance grew I was not able to collimate the dot small enough to cause external damage. I have the beam at 10-20 ft and the smallest dot I could get a that distance was about 7mm to 10mm... I think is the len!?!?!?
Anyone can help me out...
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